WeedPro Blog

Kudzu Bug Update! November 2nd, 2011

Megacopta cribraria, also known as the kudzu bug, is once again moving from its preferred host in search of protected sites where it will spend the winter. Once on the move, the adult bugs are attracted to light-colored surfaces – landing on people, vehicles, and buildings. They are a nuisance pest for those living in our urban and suburban areas. This mass migration results in complaints and inquiries to pest control operators, Cooperative Extension offices, and the media.

The cool temperatures we have been experiencing coupled with the dying back of kudzu, its preferred host, are likely causes of the mass migration. The same phenomenon was seen in the late fall of 2009 and 2010 when the bugs moved from kudzu in search of sites in which they will spend the winter in a mostly inactive state. In the spring these adults emerge, lay eggs on sprouting kudzu, and begin building large populations of the insect. These may also infest soybeans and a number of other legumes found in the Georgia landscape (including beans and peas in home vegetable gardens).

Unfortunately, there have not been any significant developments in controlling this nuisance pest in suburban and urban environments. Research on its control will continue. We are hopeful that the large numbers of these insects we currently see reflect a “colonization effect” of these recent invaders from Asia. If so, we will likely see kudzu bugs reach an ecological equilibrium in which their numbers are not as high as we see now. Until then there are a few tips to consider:

• Seal, with caulk or screen, all cracks around windows and doors, and make sure there are no gaps under doors and around soffits. Install doorsweeps on all outside doors, if necessary.
• Kudzu bugs should not be killed inside. They should be vacuumed if found inside to prevent the noxious odor/exudate from penetrating and perhaps, staining indoor surfaces.
• At this time of year (mid-October to mid-November), kudzu bugs are most active in the afternoon as temperatures warm up later in the day. As such, plan outdoor activities in the morning, if possible, or move activities indoors.
• Kudzu bugs can be killed with pyrethroid insecticides applied directly to the insects, e.g., while resting on outside walls. However, given the peak of flight activity currently occurring, homeowners should expect significant re-invasion within a day or so. If you use an insecticide, read and follow the product’s label (it’s the law), and never use a pyrethroid insecticide in an area where it might contaminate water as these insecticides are very toxic to fish and other aquatic life. No traps have been commercialized (and shown to be effective) in attracting and killing large numbers of kudzu bugs. Effective chemical attractants have not yet been identified.
• The flight will subside, based on our experience, in late November, but the bugs will once again become active, and mildly troublesome in the spring of 2012 as they awake from their winter slumber. In light of this, if kudzu can be removed from the property, it is recommended that this be done in order to eliminate potential problems once again in October 2012.

Johns Creek, Georgia November 2nd, 2011

Weed Pro Lawn Care would like to Thank..Tom Udell,
(Traffic Services Manager) and Sgt. Ronnie Young for providing excellent community services in Johns Creek Georgia. We appreciate the community partnership and your continuing standards for excellence, Thank You!! Jeff Zazynski (CEO)

Zoysia Grass Disease October 20th, 2011

Zoysia Large Patch
Rhizoctonia Solani AG2-2 “LP”
• Active at thatch temperature range of 50-85 degrees
• Survives in bud nodes and inoculates leaf sheaths
• Infects nodes and stolons; roots and rhizomes not infected.
• Disease grows as mycelium
• Can move in infested soil or plant parts
• May be new patches or perennial
• Infected areas range in size from 6 inches to 20 feet in diameter.
• Uninfected Zoysiagrass will remain and grow rapidly inside the patch
• The enlargement of the lesions eventually girdles the plant and cuts off the water and nutrients supplied to the shoot.

Copper, yellow, orange band on margins of diseased areas when active. Affects crown, sheath upward
Annual Cycle
Spring
Visible around April as light brown sunken areas recovering slowly from winter dormancy with
Healthy turf around the patches greening up more rapidly. Patches may expand and Exhibit a bright orange border.

Summer
Thatch and soil temperatures are high enough to stop the spread (cycle) of the disease.

Fall
Thatch temperatures lower and the disease becomes active again. In late September to mid-October, roughly circular patches of bright orange discolored turf appear later fading to a tan color. The outer ring of the patch will usually remain bright orange in color as it continues to expand. Examine grass shoots on the outer edge of the patch for reddish-brown to black lesions on the lower leaf sheaths on the plant.

HIGHLY SUSCEPTIBLE SUSCEPTIBLE MODERATE SUSCEPTIBLE
Emerald Zeon Meyer
El Toro Zenith JaMur
Sunburst

BMP – Best Management Practices
• Improve drainage
• Avoid over irrigation – spring/fall
• Mow at a higher cut
• Thatch at less than ½ inch
• Avoid early fertilization until active growth
• Avoid greater than 2 lb. N per 1000 – no fertilizer after August
• Slow release N
• Higher P and K

New Fescue Seed, Now What? October 7th, 2011

If you intend to re-seed your lawn or if you’ve already done so, here’s a few tips you should follow to help with your success and to protect your investment. Fertilizers used during the core aeration season are specifically designed to help the new grass develop properly and to become strong. Seed germination should be obvious at this point and new grass should be evident throughout the newly seeded area. Keep in mind, new seedlings are very fragile during this time and there are several things you should do in order to protect the grass from being damaged.
During the fall season, leaves should be kept off the new grass! In order for the fescue seed to continue its development process, it needs proper sunlight to thrive. Allowing large amounts of leaves to cover newly seeded lawns even for short amount of time can damage and smother the new seed. You should also take care not to rake the leaves if possible because this process can damage the under developed root systems. Try blowing the leaves with a backpack blower or hand blower.
Falling leaves should be kept off the new grass. In order for the fescue to continue to develop, it needs sunlight. Allowing leaves to cover newly seeded lawns for even a short period of time can cause severe damage to the new grass. You should avoid raking the leaves if possible because raking can damage the underdeveloped root systems. Blow the leaves with a blower, or try to pick them up with your mower if you have a bagging attachment.
You should mow your new fescue at a height of 2-2 1/2 inches for the first few mowings. You can then raise the mowing height to between 3-4 inches. Be sure to use a very sharp blade to avoid causing damage to the new grass. A dull blade will pull at the new grass, damaging the roots similar to the damage caused by raking.
Weeds will be present in your new lawn. This is unavoidable because the new fescue cannot withstand the effects of the weed controls. As a general rule, the weeds can be treated as soon as the new grass has been mowed 3 or 4 times. The new grass must be mature enough that the weed controls will not kill it.
Watering is very important and you should not allow the grass to become dry. Keep your seed moist it all times for the first 3 to 4 weeks until established and then water accordingly after that.

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