Do you have the right soil? 

Lawn care can be very difficult if the soil foundation that the lawn is built on is not solid. Preforming a soil test each year is a great way to find any problems in the soil that need to be remedied before lawn can be well taken care of.

Some lawn and garden stores provide do-it-yourself kits that allow individuals to test the soil in their lawn on their own. Other lawn care professionals can also be hired to come in and test the soil in a yard to see if any changes need to be made to the soil.

Which grass are you growing? After the soil has been taken care of it will then be necessary to choose what type of grass will be used. There are many different types of grass and it is important to know what types of grass require what types of treatment.

A large portion of the grass that is available requires at least four hours of sunlight each day. When there is a large portion of a yard that does not receive enough sunlight, it is important that a grass is found that can survive and thrive in shaded areas.

Time for planting. When the soil has been taken care of and the grass has been chosen the grass will then need to be planted. The first step to having the grass planted will require the soil to be aerated to ensure that it is loose enough to accept the new grass seeds and allow them to grow.

After the soil has been aerated the grass seeds will then need to be spread evenly across the area. Some individuals use a seed spreader to ensure that they can spread the seeds evenly while others prefer to spread the grass seeds by hand.

As the seeds make it into the soil, the seeds will then need to be covered with a light layer of soil. Many lawn care facilities will sell soil that is treated to provide the nutrients that will help new grass seeds sprout and start to grow.

Keep your hard work from going to waste. When the seeds are in the soil they will then need to be watered well. The soil will need to be kept moist and as the grass grows it will need to be watered on a consistent basis.

If the grass seeds are overwatered they will die and if they are not watered enough they will die. Talking with a lawn care professional about the perfect way to water a new lawn can be very beneficial to novice grass growers.

As the grass continues to grow it will need to be cut and watered. The grass will also need to be fertilized so it can receive the proper nutrients that will be required to grow well.

Sometimes close is too close. Trimming your lawn too low can be detrimental to the health of your lawn. When you start to trim your grass too short it can cause damage to your tufgrass and allow more sun light to reach your soil surface, which can promote the growth of weeds. Trimming your grass too low is often referred to as scalping. Scalping should be avoided whenever your lawn is being trimmed.

Are you wacking more than weeds? A string trimmer can cause damage to the plants in your landscape. When you have to trim close to trees and shrubs, you may find that the trimmer comes into contact with the bases of these trees and shrubs accidentally. When this happens, permanent damage can be caused. The more severe result of this damage could be the death of the tree or the shrub. To avoid this, plant trees and shrubs in properly edged beds or use tree rings around the trees in your yard.

Do it before or do it after, but do it right. Some people like to use a string trimmer before their mow, while others prefer to use the string mower after they have finished mowing. We tend to use string trimmers after we have mowed, we think that the visibility of the hard to reach areas is increased when the mowing has already been done. Whether you trim before or after mowing is a personal preference and will not make any drastic differences in the long run.

I would like to personally thank you for your dedication and hard work with achieving this years 2012 Best Pick Award!   Your continuing personal dedication, commitment and personal achievement goals are the reason for our success!     Thank You,  Jeff Zazynski CEO

Dear 2012 Best Pick,

Congratulations for successfully achieving your 2012 Best Pick status! We are very proud to be associated with you and truly appreciate the continued effort and dedication you put forth to achieve exceptional customer satisfaction.

The key to disease control is a healthy plant treated by Weed Pro Lawn Care! Under proper turfgrass lawn care management, disease-causing conditions are often reduced and healthy turf is maintained. The following management practices will help achieve vigorous, healthy turf and reduce turfgrass disease problems.Prepare the soil properly for successful turfgrass establishment.

*Weed Pro lawn will take soil samples to determine proper lime and nutrient requirements.

*Remove debris such as rocks, tree stumps and other woody debris. Fairy ring fungus has long been associated with rotting wood and other organic materials.

*Provide proper drainage. The area should be graded to prevent surface water from collecting and making the soil soggy.

Plant a locally adapted, disease-resistant turfgrass.

*Consult Weed Pro Lawn Care in Georgia or call your local county Extension office for recommended varieties and cultivars for your area.

Purchase high quality, disease-free seed, sod or sprigs from a certified producer.

*Plant material that is certified for varietal purity and free of noxious pests.

*Before planting, consider the time of year and the remaining length of the growing season. With adequate moisture and time, most turfgrasses will recover from the shock of harvest, transport and planting.

*If the lawn is to be seeded, use fungicide-treated seed to discourage seedborne and seedling diseases.

*Nematodes and disease problems can be brought in on infected springs and sod. Inspect the plant material and, if problems are detected, notify the contractor before the sod or sprigs are planted.

Maintain the recommended mowing height.

*Mow turfgrasses often enough so that not more than 30 percent (1/3) of the leaf blade is removed in a single mowing. If more plant material is removed, the grass can become stressed and more susceptible to diseasecausing organisms and insects.

*Keep mower blades sharp.

Dull blades will shred the leaf tips, causing the turfgrass to use more water, undergo undue stress and have a ragged appearance.

*Raise the mowing height during stress periods such as drought.

Follow proper irrigation practices.

*The most cost-effective practice that enhances turf growth is proper irrigation.

*Apply water when signs of moisture stress (e.g., wilt) are observed on 30 to 50 percent of the lawn. For most turfgrass species, wilted turfgrasses will have a dull to bluish-green color, leaf blade folding or rolling, and footprints will remain visible for a minute or longer after walking over the area.

*Apply enough water to wet the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. This is usually equivalent to 1 inch of water or 600 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet. To avoid runoff, the amount of water that can be applied in any single irrigation can vary with different soils. For example, the same amount of water will penetrate deeper into a sandy soil than a clay soil.

*If the soil becomes compacted, loosen it through cultivation such as core aeration. This will help the water penetrate the soil.

*Irrigate during dry periods in early spring and late fall.

*Late afternoon irrigating can encourage disease development. Irrigation after dew development (approximately 9:00 p.m.) and before sunrise (approximately 6:30 a.m.) is most efficient and will not increase disease problems.

Apply fertilizer and lime according to soil test recommendations.

*Disease incidence can be increased by imbalanced fertility and improper fertilization.

*On warm-season turfgrass species, withhold the first spring nitrogen application until soil temperatures at the 4-inch depth are consistently 65° F.

Remove excess thatch.

*If the lawn is not mowed, irrigated and fertilized correctly, thatch accumulation could create a problem.

*Excess thatch reduces water infiltration, creates shallow-rooted turf and encourages insect and disease problems. Disease-causing organisms and insects often survive and multiply in thatch.

*Excess nitrogen can lead to thatch accumulation.

*If excess thatch accumulates, the lawn will feel soft and spongy. For a thatch layer thicker than ½ inch, dethatching is advised.

Allow for adequate light and air movement in shaded areas.

*Raise the mowing height in shaded areas to help the plant absorb the light that does penetrate the tree canopy.

*Design landscape plantings so that trees and shrubs do not restrict light penetration or air circulation to the turfgrass canopy.

*It may be necessary to prune nearby trees and shrubs to improve light penetration and air movement.

*In shaded areas, excessive moisture can persist within the grass canopy. Disease-causing fungi use this moisture to survive and infect the grass.

*Reducing fertilizer amounts by 20 to 50 percent compared to grass in full-sun areas also helps the grass in limited light environments.

Follow recommended disease, insect and weed control practices.

*Correctly identify the disease, insect or weed prior to treating with a pesticide.

*Proper management practices can reduce pest problems and reduce the need for chemicals.

Contact your local Weed Pro Lawn Care for assistance.

Specifically, the language pertaining to “Restrictions for Residential Outdoor Surface and Space Sprays,” except for outdoor fogging devices, reads:

“All outdoor applications must be limited to spot or crack-and-crevice treatments only, except for the following permitted uses:

(1) Treatment to soil or vegetation around structures;

(2) Applications to lawns, turf, and other vegetation;

(3) Applications to building foundations, up to a maximum height of 3-feet.

Other than applications to building foundations, all outdoor applications to impervious surfaces such as sidewalks, driveways, patios, porches and structural surfaces (such as windows, doors, and eaves) are limited to spot and crack-and-crevice applications, only.”

If you see green leaves in Atlanta lawn care areas on top of deciduous trees, it might be mistletoe.

Mistletoe is an evergreen, parasitic plant found on a wide host of trees, including alder, birch, cottonwood, maple, oak, hickory and elm. Mistletoe gets water and nutrients from the host tree, but it is not totally dependent.

Leaves of mistletoe contain chlorophyll and are capable of making their own food from carbon dioxide and water. Birds feed on mistletoe berries and deposit them on new trees in their droppings. This is how mistletoe spreads from tree to tree. When the seeds germinate, they grow through the bark and into the vascular system of the host where it obtains water and minerals.

Mistletoe can be particularly stressful to trees during drought conditions. Trees that are heavily infested by mistletoe for several years may lose vigor, become stunted or even killed. This is especially true if the tree is already subjected to drought stress, harsh winter conditions, construction injury, diseases, insects or other conditions that further weaken the tree.

Mistletoe grows slowly at first and may take years to produce seeds. Healthy trees can tolerate small mistletoe infestations, but individual branches might be compromised and susceptible to wind or snow breakage.

Simply removing mistletoe will provide some protection from spreading. However, if you remove only the mistletoe, it will probably regrow.

To effectively control mistletoe, prune the tree one to two feet beyond the point of attachment. If the mistletoe is located on a main limb or trunk, remove the top of the mistletoe and wrap the cut with an opaque plastic to prevent sunlight. Since mistletoe requires light, it will die within a couple of years. It might be necessary to repeat this treatment, especially if the wrapping becomes detached or the mistletoe is not completely killed.

]]> http://www.weedpro.com/Blog/uncategorized/the-best-day-of-fishing-ever/feed/ 0 http://www.weedpro.com/Blog/uncategorized/happy-new-year-january-garden-tips/ http://www.weedpro.com/Blog/uncategorized/happy-new-year-january-garden-tips/#comments Mon, 09 Jan 2012 20:58:24 +0000 weedpro http://www.weedpro.com/Blog/?p=1333 Choose a nice sunny day and fertilize your winter pansies, violas, and ornamental cabbage. It’s also a great time to deadhead any unsightly or damage flower heads. Be sure to also remove any seed pod stems. Fertilize your winner flower displays with products that contain “nitrate nitrogen” for plants growing in cold soil.

Mower maintenance is upon us! Don’t procrastinate! Drain and completely replace the oil in your lawn mower and check the spark plug and blades. Also, check the air filter for debris’s or clogged up pre-filters. If this is a task you don’t feel comfortable with, local mower shops usually are slow during January and can help with your lawn mowing maintenance needs.

Bare-root roses will arrive in nurseries this month! Start designing your landscape plan to incorporate spacing for each plant. The plants come in a wide variety of colors and textures to choose from. Just remember, when configuring the total square footage you will need. The basic rule of thumb is four feet wide and twelve inches deep for each plant to include new soil.

Now that leafs are gone in the Atlanta Metro area, it’s easy to see the limb structure of trees and a great time for limb pruning and shaping. Crape Myrtle’s are a very popular landscape variety in Georgia and are usually pruned during the months of January and February. Just remember to remove any unsightly or over hanging areas while trees are dormant. It’s also, a great time to complete any large tree pruning projects.

Don’t be in a hurry to fertilize poinsettias until March. Only water the plant as needed when the soil becomes dry. If you have difficulties determining if the plant is dry are not, use a moisture meter to assist you. Place the plant in a bright sunny area with cool temperatures for best results during Atlanta Georgia’s winter months or by your head.

Winter is a difficult time for trees. Trees must stand in the face of drying and cold winds. Food reserves must be carefully conserved for the coming needs of spring. Water continues to be lost from the tree. Any creature needing a meal chews and nibbles on the resting buds and twigs. Trees stand alone against all circumstances that the winter season can generate.

A few small investments now can pay-off in a large way, yielding a healthy and structurally sound tree.

The “Top 10 List” of things you can do to winterize your tree include:

1. Remove or correct structural faults and deadwood that are clearly visible. Try to make small pruning cuts that minimize the exposure of the central heartwood core on branches.
2. Properly prune branches that will touch the ground when loaded with rain and snow. Foliage and branches that are in contact with soil can invite undesirable pests and problems.
3. Remove damaged and declining twigs, branches, and bark. Do not leave pests food and shelter for the winter.
4. Remove any new sprouts that have grown at the tree base, or along stems and branches. Pruning should conserve as many living branches as possible with only a few selective cuts.
5. Spread a thin layer of composted organic mulch to blanket the soil. Cover an area at least as large as the branch spread. Mulch is nature’s of recycling valuable materials, but be careful of pests hitching a ride.
6. Properly wrap new trees that have not developed a corky bark and could be easily damaged. Mechanical injury from the environment, including chewing and rubbing by animals, must be prevented.
7. Aerate soils if they are compacted and poorly drained. It is critical not to damage tree roots in the soil. Saturated and dense soil can suffocate roots.
8. Fertilize with all the essential elements, if they are in short supply within the soil. Be sure to go lightly with nitrogen, especially under large, mature trees and around newly planted trees.
9. Watering may be needed where soils are cool but not frozen, and there has been little precipitation. Winter droughts need treatment with water the same as summer droughts, except it is much easier to over-water in winter.

Trees are investments that require a small amount of care. For the sake of your tree’s quality of life and your own, take a few minutes to winterize your tree. Wonderful springs come from well-tended winters.